Travel

Athens: Six Years Later

Chris Ozgo
Chris Ozgo
Jun 23, 2024 • 5 min read
Side-by-side photos of the Athens, Greece skyline being looked out on.

Back where it all started.

Six years ago, I was on the verge of accomplishing my childhood dream of playing college basketball with a scholarship to Case Western Reserve University.

But injuries and second thoughts about the university nudged me towards a gap year instead. I was lost and uncertain as I set off to travel the world for a couple of months.

The first place I found myself?

Athens, Greece.

In retrospect, it was the place that most influenced the years that followed.

I'll never forget the city's mesmerizing views, delicious food, and unforgettable nightlife, and how my first experience abroad made me feel. Athens felt magical, but more importantly, travel felt magical.

The Acropolis

Six years later, I was back. And despite a lifetime of change between visits, I felt welcomed just the same.

Greek Hospitality

Everyone's entitled to their opinion, but here's mine:

Greek people are the most hospitable on the planet.

During my first trip, I was in utter disbelief that I could be welcomed with such open arms. Not only did my host, Apollo, insist that I sleep in his childhood bed, but I also got to be a part of his friend group as we went full Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn acting like hooligans around the city.

Apollo and I in 2018

Apollo has since moved to a Greek island and could no longer be my guide. Luckily, while traveling, I met an Athens native named Harry who met up with me during my visit.

I felt the same ease with Harry as with Apollo. We grabbed some drinks and compared and contrasted our lives halfway across the world.

I also got to meet Harry's friends who arrived at varying levels of Greek time–one only an hour late, others who were four hours behind.

As I braved another round of Ouzo mixed with water, I tried to balance reminiscing and staying present. But I couldn't help but notice the nostalgia that filled each moment back in Athens.

Me, Harry (bottom-center), and his friends!

Beyond nostalgia, Harry, Apollo, and their friend groups made me feel like I belonged in a way I've rarely experienced abroad.

Through simple acts like buying a round of drinks, keeping the conversation in English, and including me in their plans, we reached the most pristine form of hospitality–the moment when I forget I'm a traveler and feel like I'm a local.

This hospitality is omnipresent in Athens.

Greek Life

Around 2:00 AM, Harry's friend group had finally assembled and we headed to the Athens equivalent of a US frat party.

Or, as I liked to think of it, real Greek Life.

I can recall countless open-air courtyards with ear-throbbing speakers, cheap alcohol, and live DJs from my university days in the US.

And here we were in Athens–Greece, not Georgia–living that experience in a place I never could have stumbled upon without Harry.

The music was equal parts familiar English songs and Greek songs which I didn't know a word of. Harry's friends kindly translated the meanings for me.

Of course, it wouldn't be a frat party if someone didn't end up on an elevated surface with their shirt off, so I obliged.

We stayed until 5:00 AM, or as the Greeks call it, an early night.

The Past Meets the Present

While exploring, I saw most of the same things from 6 years ago, but visiting Athens never gets old.

The Acropolis sits perched in the middle of the city, visible from almost everywhere and oozing with 2500-year-old history.

The original Olympic Stadium is a stone's throw away and is equal parts modern and storied.

The original (albeit renovated) Olympic stadium

Athens boasts some of the world's best cityscapes, visible from its many hills. Take your pick of Mount Lycabettus, Areopagus Hill, the Acropolis itself, or one of countless rooftop bars.

Soaking in the city from up above, it's impossible not to be in awe of humanity's capabilities. Athens is the ultimate combination of past and present, shrines of ancient times integrating seamlessly with today's modern metropolis.

Oh, and did I mention you can get a Greek gyro, the greatest fast-casual food ever invited, for €3?

I'll take two :)

The World's Most Underrated City

On my last night in Athens, I strolled down Ermou Street, the main shopping area of the city. It was bustling with locals and tourists, but not yet overcrowded from the impending high season.

I was reflecting on the differences between my first trip to Greece and this one. 40+ countries in between them meant I was bound to see things with a new perspective.

The view from Mount Lycabettus. Check out the Acropolis to my left.

Six years ago, I was too wide-eyed to observe Athens's grunginess, worn-down infrastructure, or people scraping by on low wages.

This time I noticed. It didn't change my perspective, but it allowed me to see why many people gloss over Athens in favor of glitzy Greek islands.

For those willing to look past that side of the city, there is so much to offer. Those same downfalls give it a feeling of resilience, charm, and hospitality that you won't find in Santorini or Mykonos.

They give you an understanding of the real Greek experience.

They give you a greater appreciation for the Harrys and Apollos of the city, the friendly locals who are a lens into the world beyond tourism.

When you peek beneath the surface, Athens is the world's most underrated city.

Give it a chance and you'll see for yourself.

:)