Travel
This European Country Loves the US


"They murdered my grandfather. Then they burned the house down."
My friend Adrian often gets emotional when discussing the war that defined his childhood.
But the evolution from oppression to freedom helps him appreciate the latter more. It's a perspective that those of us who were born into it will never have.
Adrian is from Kosovo, the newest country in Europe, which broke free from Serbian rule in 1999 and officially declared its independence in 2008.
It's also an example of a US foreign policy decision that was objectively good, yet one that hardly any Americans know about.
In response to the ethnic cleansing and atrocities committed by Serbian forces against Albanians living in Kosovo, the US and NATO launched a bombing campaign against Serbia, leading to the withdrawal of Serbian troops and paving the way for the establishment of Kosovo.
That decision to act changed the trajectory of Adrian's life.

American Love
Normally the reaction is muted when I tell Europeans I'm from the US. It's not necessarily bad, but it's not good either.
In Kosovo, even people who couldn't speak English were quick to acknowledge how much they loved the US.
"America?!" a Kosovo police officer exclaimed when Adrian told him where I was from. He made a big heart gesture with his hands, and the message was clear.
Here, being American is met with enthusiasm and gratitude.
Everyone born before 1999 lived through the conflict, and the memories of liberation are still fresh. No matter that I wouldn't even be born until a few months after Serbia's withdrawal.
Kosovo loves the US.
If it wasn't clear from the people, it definitely was from the signs around Pristina, Kosovo's capital.
There's George Bush Boulevard, named in honor of the US President who recognized Kosovo's independence.
A sculpture of former US Secretary of State Madeleine Albright is not far away.
But the centerpiece is the Bill Clinton Statue on the main road heading into Pristina.

Yup. This is in Kosovo. It's worth mentioning that Clinton has a statue in his hometown of Arkansas that is far less impressive.

Building a Better Life
Adrian is even quicker to defend the US than I am and it's not hard to see why.
Over a million people fled Kosovo during the war, including him and his family. Adrian's grandfather warned the family to leave their village but was killed when he stayed behind.
Adrian's dad lost his best friend.
Everyone lost someone. But because of the US intervention, they ultimately gained their freedom.
We're hardly a generation removed from the conflict but there was no cause for concern as we walked down the main stretch in Kosovo's 2nd biggest city, Prizren. I recognized it from videos Adrian showed me of NATO tanks rolling in 25 years ago.
Since Kosovo's independence, the country has only stabilized. No tensions had flared in quite some time.

Today's Situation
Interestingly, some Serbians live in Kosovo, even though the country's ethnic Albanian majority was being oppressed and displaced by the Serbian government.
In Pristina, Adrian and I went to a restaurant run by a Serbian family and ate some of the best food I've had recently. I was reminded that different ethnic groups can peacefully coexist without governments intervening to carry out political agendas.
I was also reminded that Balkan food is incredible. Hearty meats, fresh veggies, and lots of homemade bread and cheeses. I ate some of the best food in recent memory with Adrian.

Amazing meals aside, experiencing Kosovo through Adrian's eyes was the best way to understand the country and its history. It's hard to comprehend what they went through without a firsthand account.
As we drove around, he talked about what liberation was like. The Serbs left, a new government gained its footing, and a better life formed for its people.
We'd spot the UÇK (Kosovo Liberation Army) emblem on hilltops–a shrine to the Kosovars who fought for their freedom.
Adrian was proud to show me a 1999 video of Bill Clinton explaining the US decision to intervene to the American people.
All the additional context made Kosovo a living history book.

Lessons Learned
Adrian would tell you that Kosovo is evidence that the US has good intentions whenever it intervenes internationally.
Do I agree? It's hard to fully agree amidst botched efforts in Vietnam, Iraq, Afghanistan, and more. But it's an interesting perspective. The lives of one million Kosovars were forever changed because our government decided to act.
At the very least, Americans need to know about Kosovo.
Most can't point to it on a map. It's below Serbia.
Others might think it's dangerous because it's associated with a recent war. It's not.
I was welcomed with open arms and felt the love of the new country everywhere I went. I was wide-eyed at the stories of the people who truly appreciate their freedom because they know what it was like without it. And I was thankful for Adrian, my local guide who patiently explained it all.
Travel is all about gaining a new perspective. In Kosovo, I did just that.
Thanks, Bill Clinton.
:)