Travel

The Journey and the Destination

Chris Ozgo
Chris Ozgo
Oct 27, 2024 • 5 min read
Three friends pose on top of Chombe Plateau, Livingstonia, Malawi

Two hours into a slog up the mountain, I glanced back at the sprawling scenery below. I wondered if the destination would be worth it.

87 hours ago, my trip started in Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Eighty. Seven. Hours.

Over the last three and a half days, my friends April, Remy, and I met five travelers—three in Dar es Salaam and two in Mbeya–headed to the same place.

You probably haven't heard of those Tanzanian cities. But they're part of the journey to Mushroom Farm Eco Lodge, a legendary travel destination in the remote mountains of northern Malawi.

We bought out this minibus so we could get to Mushroom Farm "faster." Naturally, it broke down 10 minutes in.

The hike to Mushroom Farm was also part of the journey–albeit optional. Six of our 8 compatriots hopped on motorbikes and zipped up the mountain.

At least they took my bags with them when I opted for the slower, human-powered route. If I'd been at this for three days, why not spend a few extra hours to feel like I'd earned my way to the lodge?

It was a race against time to make it by nightfall so we hiked hard.

Lake Malawi got smaller and smaller in the distance as the water glinted in the sunset's golden hue. Between breaths, I kept reminding myself what the Mushroom Farm website said about getting there.

The journey to reach us is part of the experience.

Seeing the Lodge come into view down a long gravel driveway vindicated that claim and ver the next few days, I'd discover that the trip to Mushroom Farm was about the journey and the destination.

Tanzania! A 36-hour train ride from Dar es Salaam to Mbeya.

Arrived!

The best hostels make you feel at home immediately when you walk through the door.

I won't forget how the warm Mushroom Farm welcome made 87 hours of travel feel instantly worth it. We were treated to a community vegetarian dinner–a hallmark of the most memorable places I've stayed in the last year.

But this one wasn't cobbled together by a hostel volunteer. The chefs were salaried local Malawians and the ingredients came from their permaculture garden or nearby Livingstonia.

How is this completely vegetarian?

I couldn't decide if the chickpea curry, fried eggplant, and roasted potato was the best vegetarian dinner I've ever had because I had waited 3 days for this, or if the farm-to-table prep format was simply superior.

Probably both?

Each mouthful spoke volumes to my fatigued traveler's body.

Welcome home, it seemed to tell me. You can rest now.

Peaceful Days

Rest I did. But I made sure to wake up early the following morning. The room had no door–just an opening looking out onto the water.

I didn't even sit up in bed to see the sunrise. Opening my eyes was sufficient.

It was one of those quiet sunrises that oozes hope and happiness, motivation and inspiration. The sunrise reminded me how to disconnect from the toxicity of modern-day life and reconnect with nature.

Up here in the remote Malawian mountains, nothing could interrupt that flow.

The next few days, I hiked around the area, explored the Mushroom Farm gardens, and received a massage. It was plenty to keep me busy and I was touched to see how our tourist money went straight to the pockets of local guides, farmers, and masseuses.

I couldn't stop thinking about the lodge's positive impact.

Mushroom Farm was helping to elevate the surrounding community and cultivate positive relationships between travelers and Malawians.

The Best of Malawi

Chombe Plateau, a beautiful hike in the mountains!

The lodge was hosting a yoga retreat which attracted people from all over the country. During meals and activities, I met aid workers, volunteers, and local samaritans all working to make Malawi a better place.

Hillary from the US was working for USAID in Malawi. She'd invested 12 years of her life helping build a more developed Africa.

Christina from Sweden ran Afrogarden, a nonprofit helping locals create "kitchen gardens," a way for families to achieve self-sufficiency. For 15 years she'd been working to reduce extreme poverty in the country.

Kay ran her own Mushroom Farm-like lodge in southern Malawi. She does outreach in Cape Maclear to make her community a better place.

Between their countless stories, it was clear each was passionate about improving Malawi.

It's sometimes difficult to remember that people working for a better future exist amidst all the problems sub-Saharan Africa faces.

More Malawi scenery

But they do exist. And I can't think of a more unifying space for them than Mushroom Farm.

A Special Place

The time to leave came too fast.

I'd just gotten used to the breathtaking sunrises, delicious vegetarian food, and warm hearts of the employees and guests.

As I did my morning workout while clinging to the last few moments of the Lake Malawi view, I thought again about what Mushroom Farm said.

The journey to reach us is part of the experience.

Did the lodge leave a special place in my heart because it was hard to get to? Or because once I got there I felt at home?

Wow.

I pondered this as I hit my push-ups and sit-ups. Of our original 8-person entourage, 5 would head to our next destination together in a few hours.

We'd experienced so much–first getting there, then witnessing the best of humanity under one roof. We couldn't separate that easily.

Thus it clicked.

It was about the journey and the destination. Sprinkle in a bit of the friends we made along the way.

Mix it all together to get an African adventure.

And if that adventure is in Malawi, then you get Mushroom Farm.

:)